Growing Tips Upon Receipt of Bulbs
When you receive your package of bulbs we recomend that you open it up as soon as possible. The bulbs should then be transferred to an airy situation so that there is a free passage of air around the bulbs. This can be achieved by using net bags. If the bulbs are left in their packaging for more than a few days they could start to 'sweat' and the basal plate could then deteriorate. It is best to keep the bulbs in a cool temperature, in the region of 45 - 50 deg F, until planted. Many gardeners use their garage for bulb storage.
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Planting Times
Planting time windows differ between the range of bulbs we offer. Our suggested times for planting are as follows:-
- Daffodils - Narcissus - from September until mid October
- Tulips, tulipa - late October until early December - don't plant too early
- Iris & Crocus - mid September to end October
- Fritillaria - a.s.a.p in September for rare species and end of October for garden varieties
- Allium & Muscari - late September to mid October |
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Planting in pots
The choice between plastic or clay pots for most bulbs is an ongoing debate. Plastic pots have their use and so do the traditional terracotta pot.
The main requirement when growing in a pot is to ensure that there is excellent drainage. The fundamental requirement is to crock the bottom of the pot with broken pieces of terracotta and then add a handful of alpine grit
(picture 1). This should greatly help in preventing waterlogging.
The recommended potting mixture is 2/3 loam based John Innes No3 with 1/3 additional grit/sharp sand. This is the minimum amout of grit/sharp sand which should be incorporated into your potting mix. A number of top AGS exhibitors now use at least a 60 - 40% mix.
Some additional high potash fertiliser should also be incorporated into the mix. The approx. amount being a teaspoonful per 8" pot (picture2). We would recommend that you do not use bulb fibre or a soiless compost without a large percentage of grit/sand.
After crocking the pot it should be half-filled with the compost. Small pyramid-shaped handfuls of sharp grit sand should then be placed on top of the mixture to match the number of bulbs to be planted in the pot. The bulbs are then placed gently into the grit/sand (picture 3).
The pot is then topped up to within 1" of the top rim with the compost. The pot should then have a top finish of alpine grit (picture 4) and the bulbs then watered in. Don't forget to put at least one label in the pot.
Place the pot in a frost free location outside and cover with dried leaves or something similar to a depth of 2" or 3" if possible. The pot should not be allowed to dry out but conversely do not over water. The technique of growing in an alpine house is slightly different and the above mainly relates to daffodils and tulips for patios, conservatories and exhibition growing. |
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Planting in the garden
The majority of spring bulbs are very accommodating. However, any extremes of soil types and pH will affect the bulb's growth and may not maximise its potential.
As a general rule bulbs should be planted at about 2 or 3 times their own depth in the garden or rockery. The same general requirement, a need for good drainage, exists for growing in pots or the garden, . One of the easiest ways to achieve this is to plant every bulb on a small handful of 'grit/sharp sand'. This helps to protect the basal plate especially from rot. See above picture.
One very important thing which must be remembered is to feed the bulbs - see the following section. This is something that many gardeners fail to do and then wonder why they do not get flowers year after year. |
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Feeding
All bulbs in the garden or in pots require feed to reach their maximum flowering potential. Bulbs will slowly deteriorate unless they are fed. The feed can be in a soluble or a dry form. The best N.P.K for both is 10N-10P-30K or something close - a high potash feed.
Dry feed should be added to the potting mixture or sprinkled within the garden area and lightly forked in when the bulbs are planted. The rate of application being as specified by the fertiliser manufacturer. Additionally dry feed should be given when the bulbs have flowered in May. This applies to pots and the garden.
If you are seeking to maximise the size of your blooms for exhibition purposes it is also recommended that a high potash liquid feed is given at the end of January or early February. Some exhibitors then continue to feed on a bi-weekly basis at 'half strength' to get the largest possible flower. However, this can distort the natural shape of the flower and this should only be done if you have a large number of bulbs to grow and will accept a high wastage. This high level of feeding is not recommended for miniature and alpine bulbs. It is also not necessary for general garden planting since it can produce extra foliage growth and elongate the stems making the flowers more prone to the vagaries of our spring weather. |
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Invest in next year's flower
To help the bulb produce the best possible flower for the following year -
- the seed head should be removed as soon as flowering has finished; unless seeds are being collected.
- the leaves should also be left as long as possible and preferably until they die down naturally - do not tie or cut off.
This twin action helps the bulb to recharge itself for next year's flower in conjunction with the feeding program above.
THE THREE GOLDEN RULES are;
- Always plant your bulbs on grit/sharp sand whether growing in pots or in the garden.
- Use a dry high potash fertiliser in your potting mix and when planting in the garden.
- Feed all of your bulbs at least once a year and especially after they have flowered and let them die back naturally. |
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I wish you good growing and hope these tips help.
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